Broad Peak
Meagan climbed just beyond Camp 3.5 (approx 7600m / 24,934ft)
Broad Peak (12th Highest in the World)
Climbing Period: June to August
Altitude: 8047m / 26,400ft
Route: "West Ridge Route (Normal Route)".
Broad Peak was fun, and a lot of up and down with all the carries! LOL!!
Pre-Amble!!
After the partner I had planned to go to K2 with bailed a couple of days before my flight to
Pakistan, I was in a
bit of a situation. With the money already
spent, and plane tickets in hand, I decided that I would at least go
to Islamabad, and see what I could arrange as an independent climber.
As fate would have it, I arrived in Islamabad on my birthday. At
the airport, I noticed a guy who looked like a climber, and after
chatting for a few seconds, we came to realize that we were both
using the same logistics service to climb, and that we had the goal
to attempt the same two mountains (K2 and Broad Peak). He was
Fabrizio Zangrilli, leader of the Field Touring team heading to
Broad Peak first, and then K2. We were picked up by the agent from
the agency, and arrived at our hotel in the city.
Because the hotel wasn't super huge, and there weren't that many patrons,
we ran into each other occasionally. At one point I met with the logistics
staff and Fabrizio was there, and I was asked if I wanted to get to Skardu
sooner rather than later - heck yeah! Not much to do in Islamabad!
So, off we went to Skardu, and woohoo! we got a flight, and it took off,
and it landed in Skardu! Awesome! (* You need to know that it's not
common to get a flight and have it land at your destination on the first go!)
Arriving in Skardu always makes a climb in Pakistan feel like it's
actually happening - you're just that much closer to the mountains.
Of course, there are always other hurdles to overcome...
Because we were with the same logistics company, I ended up
in the same hotel as Fabrizio. Fabrizio being a professional
climber was inclined to ask about my goals and my experience and so on.
I told him what I planned, and he offered me assistance by way of suggesting
that I could pay for porter loads up the mountain, should I require
such assistance. I had planned on bringing
a bottle of oxygen for emergencies to the high camps - knowing that this
would require me to make extra carries.
But getting it up the mountain, with all my other gear, alone, would
be a significant challenge. I'm strong, but let's be real,
that's a lot of work at high altitude! And I hadn't planned on coming
here and climbing alone as it was - it's just what was working out....
At some point, Fabrizio, realizing my difficult predicament, offered
me a spot on his team. I wouldn't be a "client" per se, but I would
be able to share in the commradrie of the team, share their logistics,
and frankly, have a better chance of success! After a few phone calls,
and payments to join the teams' logistics, I was now part of
an organized team going to Broad Peak, and then to K2. A million
thanks to Fabrizio and Field Touring for inviting me on the team,
and improving my chance of success on the climbs!!!
The Climb!!
After many days of waiting wait in Skardu (for the other members
of the FTA team), we set out in jeeps from Skardu (the
road was washed out in areas, so our departure was delayed
for a while). It was late at night (and therefore, dark) when
we arrived at Askole - which was probably best...some
sections of the road were super bad!
At one stop (to survey the road), our jeep was hit with some rockfall.
The next morning, the porters got our gear sorted, and we were on our
way. It's always a freaky feeling heading out of Askole - you can't help
but wonder if you'll be making the trip out....
Arriving at Base Camp (approx 5000m / 16,405ft), we set up camp. Everyone
pitched in and helped build the tent platforms that would be our home for the
next month and a half.
The climb was going pretty well. We were getting camps established, and soon
it was time for summit push. Three of us opted to make a Camp 4, as we
were not using oxygen, and we felt this would shorten the summit day somewhat,
as opposed to going to the summit from Camp 3. A High Altitude Porter (HAP)
joined the three of us on this push. Things were seemingly going okay, but
at C3, one member decided he was good, and was going to head down. Fair
enough -
don't be pushing if you have your reasons to call it. The rest of us
continued up to
C4...
It was windy as heck and really cold the day we headed to C3. The morning we
were heading to C4, I asked one of the other members, who had been there
the year before,
if it was standard protocol to wear the downsuit out of C3. He said it was,
and I even went outside to check out the temperature. All signs pointed to
wearing the downsuit...the decision was mine to make. So, I headed out of C3
a short time after the other two guys. Going to the bathroom has that
effect on
your schedule...(it was okay to leave a tad later, because conditions were still
favourable
at this point).
So I headed up, and it was starting to get warm. Oh boy. And then it started
to
get hot. And it got hotter and hotter, and I wrapped the top portion
of the downsuit
around my waist, and I opened up my leg zips - there wasn't much else I
could do...
Remember, I'm still on the slope of a mountain, and mucking around isn't
as easy
as it is down here!
I had wanted to catch up to the boys, but every time I tried to move faster
(to close the space), I would heat up to unbearable levels.
I looked up and saw the boys struggling as they tried to break trail.
The combination
of heat and thigh deep snow was taking its toll. It was starting
to seem
futile. They asked what I thought about stopping for a while, and I
was all about it.
Yeah, I was even going to suggest it myself - everyone was wasting energy
in the heat,
and we weren't able to make
a fair amount of progress with the energy we were expending. So, we
made camp (Camp 3.5).
It was so hot, and I was nauseous in the heat. I can't speak for the
other guys,
but the HAP decided already that he wasn't going to go any higher.
The other member
wanted to go for the summit later that night - and so did I - it would
just depend
on our condition. The plan was to catch up with
the others as per the original plan (we were just lower on the mountain
than we had originally planned).
The rest of the day passed, and we tried to hydrate and eat and rest
up (haha!!).
Unfortunately,
the sun had already gotten to me, and every time I tried to eat or
drink, I puked it up.
I wanted to go up, but I was starting to think it wasn't the smartest idea.
Day turned into night, and we "rested". Then it was time to get dressed
for the
summit push. Why not - gotta give it a go I figure. We started to hear
climbers
from below pass our tent. Then we heard our guys, and the other member
and I got out of the tent.
It was breaking dawn now - chilly (but not terribly cold) and the winds
weren't bad at all.
I started to head up, but honestly, I had my doubts. I wasn't feeling
it - I thought
if I got out of the tent and got going, I'd get into the groove. I
thought I could even get up the mountain, but getting down might be harder
than
I was in the condition to attempt. Also,
the summit ridge is tricky on Broad Peak - and there's not a lot of room
for error (so I had heard).
I headed up a little ways, and looked down and saw that the other member
had bailed (of the four that
had intended to make Camp 4, only I was left pushing up). But not for
long, my foot was
going numb (even though it wasn't that cold), and I just wasn't feeling
like this was my day.
So, I bailed. Plain and simple - this isn't supposed to be a one way
trip. You have to
be into what you're doing, and 100% clued in...or problems happen.
As it turned out, everyone on our very large FTA team bailed. Better
safe than sorry, folks!
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