Lhotse
Meagan Successfully Summitted (with O2) 23 May 2010, 1030hrs

Lhotse (4th Highest in the World)
Climbing Period: April and May

Altitude: 8501m / 27,920ft

Route: Normal.

After co-guiding a trek through the Khumbu region, I was looking forward to going high and getting a good climb in. A climb to Lhotse was on my schedule, and I was psyched!

The route to the summit of Lhotse is the same as if you were on your way to the summit of Mount Everest, that is, until you reach Camp 3. Climbers must ascend through the Khumbu Ice Fall, resting at Camp 1 (5900m / 19,357ft), and then continue through the Western Cwm to Camp 2 (6400m / 20,998ft). Climbers will take a short overnight rest at Camp 3 (7300m / 23,951ft) and then carrying on up the mountain. After Camp 3, the route diverges, and where Everest climbers head up and over the Geneva Spur, Lhotse climbers will continue up the Lhotse Face to Camp 4. I headed up without oxygen, as my intention was to climb Lhotse with "no O's". I pulled into Camp 4 and was feeling the lack of oxygen. Whew! You definitely notice it!!

Pemba, my Sherpa partner, had pulled into Camp 4 well ahead of me. Fair enough - the guy is strong! He had established the camp. I climbed up and into the tent and gasped for breath for a little bit! Later that night we were going to head up the mountain - how exciting! There was no real rest or eating, but I did my best. Pemba was a quiet guy and we didn't talk too much, but he was a great and always pleasant to be around.

It was about 0100hrs (or so) when we headed out. It happened that we were heading up with a couple of Finnish guys - guys many of the Asian Trekking team had become friends with, as our camp was right next to theirs. Strong - good - capable guys - we were a good bunch to head up that morning. They were on oxygen, so this was a one shot deal for them. No do-overs. They had climbed this mountain in a fashion that isn't too common now-a-days: with NO Sherpa support. These guys rocked.

Because I wasn't using O's I was at the back of the group (someone has to be, and it makes sense that it would be the person with the breathing disadvantage, eh?!) It wasn't too hard though - I definitely expected it to be a lot more difficult. I actually felt pretty strong. Mind you, the Finns and Pemba were putting in fixed line, alongside old fixed line (how old...I don't know...and that might have led to a problem we would encounter later in the morning), so I guess in terms of work effort, I had the advantage. Up and up in the dark. The Finns working their asses off and using up their O's. I still hadn't learned how to fix line at this point (I would later learn the skills on Broad Peak in the summer of 2010). So I was grateful for their effort.

We were heading up, and dawn was just breaking. We were at a point on the Lhotse Face where we had to upwardly traverse a section of the slope to the bottom of the couloir that leads to the summit area. But, there wasn't enough fixed line. We would have to cross the slope with no safety line. Which is fine...admittedly. But all of us had been on the mountain in 2007 when a young Sherpa climber, Pemba, fell to her death at this spot as she descended the mountain. None of us wanted to suffer the same fate. We all knew we could make it up, but what about coming down? We'd be tired, if the conditions didn't hold, we'd be screwed. And, I learned after the whole episode that the Finns and Pemba had discussed with another team previously on the mountain how much fixed line would be required. I was not part of this conversation, in fact, I only learned about it after I returned to base camp. So, what to do about the predicament. Well, there were four of us there, and we all decided to go down. Pemba and I would try again the next night (from Camp 4) but for the Finns, their summit attempt was over as they had run out of oxygen. We got down into Camp 4, and that was that ... for now.

I rested but did not sleep, it's hard to sleep with no Os at high altitude. I ate a bit, and before I knew it, it was time to go again. We left at about the same time, 0100hrs (or so). I have to say though, I started to notice that this night was going to be different from the last the moment I tried to go to the bathroom. It took a while (and by that, I mean it was more complicated than it had to be). Then, when I tried to hike myself up onto the tent platform on my way to the route, it took a few more moments than it should have. Hmmmm.... I got moving, but I was so sluggish. Oh man!

I got on the fixed line, and, with my ice-axe in one hand, and my other on the line, I climbed up the mountain. But it was slow. I got to the anchor, and Pemba was shouting down at me, wondering what was taking so long. I said, "I'm going to have a gu (a carbohydrate gooey substance to give me energy)!" I got to the next anchor, and Pemba was waiting. He suggested I take the oxygen he was carrying for emergency. (You see, I had purchased a bottle of oxygen for emergency use. And no, I wasn't carrying it. I would have if I wasn't going to hold someone up, but with Pemba, a strong Sherpa, he didn't quite have that much patience!LOL!!) I declined. Yesterday I was so freaking strong, and today, I'm a bum! What's up with that! When I got to the next anchor, I took Pemba's advice and took the oxygen. It was that or waste the entire effort and go home because I had too much pride. So, on with the oxygen. But even that wasn't like super-fuel. Apparently, I got wasted (energy-wise) at Camp 4 ... I'd been at high altitude with no supplemental oxygen longer than I had ever been, and it took a toll. With my doubts about whether I'd be able to make the summit, Pemba said, "Let's just use up the oxygen and we'll make a decision at that point." Okay, Okay. Well, that bottle got me up to the summit. Thank you, Pemba!! As we were coming down the mountain, that was when I realized that my North Face down suit has a significant flaw: the crotch zipper that goes from your belly to your back unzips - exposing everything to the entire world. And well, when I say everything, I mean everything! I'd get into it, but it might be a bit much for ya'll!! LOL!!!

On the way down, I tried going from Camp 4 to Camp 2 without oxygen. Well, OMG! You read about how much a lack of oxygen affects your performance, well now I absolutely know - it's tough going! I put on O's from Camp 3 and down a little ways (not all the way to Camp 2). It helped immensely. I was happy to come into Camp 2, and the next day, I made it down to Base Camp. It had been a good climb. It didn't go as planned, but climbing rarely does.